Italian food is “twice blessed because it is the product of two arts, the art of cooking and the art of eating,” famed cookbook author Marcella Hazan wrote in “The Classic Italian Cookbook.” Food for Italians is something to be savored, revered, studied and examined, at a leisurely pace and with gusto, but not greed.
Beginnings
In the first meal of the day there is little hint of what lies ahead. Italians start the day simply, perhaps with a cornetti (croissant) or slice of brioche, accompanied by a cappuccino, or just an espresso taken standing up at a local coffee bar — cheaper than sitting at a cafe table.
Leisurely Lunch
Pranzo (lunch) traditionally was the main meal of the day, and in the countryside it still is for many workers. In urban areas, lunch has become lighter, although it remains a three-course meal — antipasto (appetizer), primo piatto (first plate), usually pasta, soup or rice, followed by secondo piatto, a meat or fish dish. It is also a leisurely affair, lasting more than an hour and ending with fresh fruit. Italians prefer to enjoy cakes and pastries with a mid-afternoon coffee break.
Relax, Enjoy
Italians consider dinner an opportunity to relax with friends and family, to chat and gossip, laugh and share. Typically, Italians eat later than many Americans and northern Europeans — lunch at 1 p.m. and dinner never before 8 p.m., often later in summer. Waiters will not bring a check until one is requested, and no one will be asked to hurry up and eat to free a table.
Definitions
There has been a blurring of the lines in defining types of restaurants in Italy. Trattoria used to refer to a local restaurant featuring affordable, regional foods in a relaxed setting, but the name has been co-opted by some chic urban restaurants to denote authenticity and rustic cooking. An osteria is a more humble establishment, usually family owned and operated, a place where customers are served homecooked-style meals, often at communal tables and for a reasonable price.
The Rules
There are two cardinal rules of Italian cuisine — eat locally and eat seasonally. Imported foods are changing this picture, but faithful Italian cooks would never eat asparagus, tomatoes or artichokes out of season. Food is part of the rhythm of life, and so Italians eagerly await the arrival of seasonal ingredients from mushrooms in the fall to wild strawberries in the spring.
Follow the Locals
Eat like the locals to save and savor: Buy picnic fare at outdoor markets and city salumerias (Italian delis). Opt for a take-out panini (sandwich) for lunch from a bakery. Buy pizza al taglio (by the slice) from a tiny hole-in-the-wall pizzeria. Eat cafeteria-style at a tavola calda (hot table) — choose from a wide variety of home-style dishes and pay at the register. It is hard to eat badly in Italy, but look for a spot where the locals are eating, pass on the “menu turistico” and ask for the “menu del giorno” — the daily specials.
